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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.